0 The Big List of Renfrew Mods

I've been wanting to put this list together for a while. Everyone loves the Renfrew top from Sewaholic right? It's a great basic and easy to sew to boot!
All around the blogosphere, people have been making their own modifications. They are really inspiring and a great encouragement to have a go at pattern mods. I've tried two mods out so far and I have a few more to try out before I'm satisfied!
So here's the list. Look, we even have a fancy button! Let's spread the Renfrew love!

I've added pictures of some, but not all. I didn't want the post tooo massive. That said, if you have any more awesome mods, link me up and I'll add see if I can them in! Oh, and I have checked for permission with these people of course.

Playing with colour blocking: 
http://www.theprettypickle.blogspot.co.nz/2013/01/renfrew-sixth-incarnation.html

http://lladybird.com/2012/02/07/completed-the-renfrew-top-and-why-i-love-knits/

This one has a woven back added in!: http://grtescp.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/boring-black-t-shirt/

Boat necks:
Each of these use a different method to finish the neckline!
http://fabrictragic.blogspot.co.nz/2013/05/renfrew-hack-boat-neck.html

http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2013/11/completed-boatneck-renfrew-mod.html

http://seweverythingblog.wordpress.com/2013/08/02/boatneck-ahoy/

Renfrew Bolero: My Renfrew Bolero

Renfrew cardigans:
http://handmadebyheatherb.blogspot.co.nz/2013/02/renfrew-cardigan-how-to.html

http://fabricepiphanies.blogspot.co.nz/2012/08/the-tardis-cardigan.html

http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.co.nz/2012/09/another-renfrew-mod.html

Renfrew dresses:

Renfrew and Moneta indie pattern mash-up by me:
http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2014/06/completed-indie-mash-up-dress.html

http://handmademartini.blogspot.co.nz/2013/04/completed-renfrew-remix.html

http://handmademartini.blogspot.co.nz/2013/05/completed-summer-dress-3-ways.html

http://theprettypickle.blogspot.co.nz/2012/12/the-renfrew-dress.html

(this is also a sleeveless mod) http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/renfrew-tank-dress.html

http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.co.nz/2012/11/black-raspberry-chocolate-chip.html

http://crafting-a-rainbow.tumblr.com/post/35159623389/renfrew-the-pattern-that-keeps-on-giving

http://www.orangecloudhandmade.com/2013/03/16/renfrew-dress-3/

http://fabricepiphanies.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/wild-about-stripes.html

Fun design details:
Renfrew with Banksia collar: http://fabrictragic.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/finished-project-sleeveless-knit.html

With bow (a knock-off for people who don't want to buy Jalie 2921 like I did!): http://tworandomwords.wordpress.com/2013/10/03/renfrew-tie-neck-top/

Boobie gathers :http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2014/06/complete-renfrew-mod.html

Sleeve Mods:
mini-pleat in sleeve: http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/are-we-still-excited-about-renfrews.html

gathered sleeve: http://www.ohcraftyone.com/2012/04/a-renfrew-parade.html

ruched sleeve: http://www.allstyleandallsubstance.com/2012/11/renfrew-ruched-sleeve-tutorial-part-1.html

long puff sleeve: http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2013/10/completed-sewaholic-hollyburn-and-bonus.html

short puff sleeve: http://making-itwell.blogspot.co.nz/2013/12/completed-papercut-la-sylphide-skirt.html

sleeve with puffed cuff: http://gksagenda.blogspot.co.nz/2013/10/babys-first-pattern-hack.html

Maternity Renfrew: http://www.ohcraftyone.com/2013/07/renfrew-parade-v2_26.html


Well, I hope you've been as inspired as I have by this trip through Renfrew town. Let me know what you think.. are YOU planning any Renfrew mods? What do you think about modding patterns in general?

Detail: The Big List of Renfrew Mods

0 Gelatin Your Chiffon: A Tutorial

So, chiffon.  Famed for being untameably slippery and hard to cut!  So of course, as a beginner, I chose to make a bias-cut top out of it.  I have problems biting off more than I can chew...

I did my research however and rounded up some tips that would hopefully make my project a success.
These included cutting out over a layer of newspaper and using tissue paper under seams while sewing.  You can read about how that went (hint- not flawlessly) in my Taffy post here.

I happened across a new tip on Pattern Review where you actually use gelatin to make the chiffon more manageable.  So I gave it a go, and decided to do a little tutorial and give my thoughts on the experience!

Full credit goes to Lena Merrin of the Sewing Space for putting the tip out there in the first place.  I'm no maverick genius, I'm just using her smarts!
 
Tutorial
You will need:
-chiffon (duh)
-gelatin  (Here in New Zealand it seems to be called gelatine? Silly!)
-saucepan
-large bucket or pot (if you have a large pot you won't need the saucepan)

Step 1:  Put 3 teaspoons of gelatin into a glass of cold water and stir in.  Leave to sit for half an hour.

Without this photo, you may not know how to put gelatin into water.  lol!

Step 2:  Transfer into your saucepan/pot and bring to the boil.  As soon as it gets to the boil, take it off the heat.  If you're doing this in a saucepan, now transfer it to the large bucket and add 3 litres of cold water.  I just added the cold water straight to my soup pot.

Nice and hot!

After adding the cold water.

Step 3:  Add the chiffon and leave it for an hour!  (I stirred mine in to make sure it was all nicely mixed).

Step 4:  Gently squeeze out your chiffon and hang it up to dry.  You're done!  Look, it's crisp and has more body!  I made this nifty comparison pic for you.  Not the most scientific, but I think you can see the difference!

Left: going in.  Right: after drying.

Thoughts:
-You'll want to iron this before you cut it of course.  When you iron it, don't use steam.  I didn't try this out, but I imagine it could get gunky...
-This helps the manageability of the chiffon, but it's not a magic bullet.  I still found cutting out my pattern pretty dicey!
-My chiffon was polyester, but I've heard of people using this successfully for silk chiffon too.
-After you're finished working with it, you'll want to wash out the gelatin.  I soaked mine in cold water for a while, and then hand washed with laundry powder.  Then I removed excess water with a towel and air dried flat.
You can use the same method for silk, but use a delicate or wool wash detergent.
-I was worried about the gelatin making the touching layers of chiffon get stuck together while it was drying, but it was no problem.

This idea seems wacky and cool and makes you feel like a mad scientist!  I hope this helps someone out there!

Chiffon is kind of a pain, but so beautiful.  It was worth it for my Taffy :)

Update:  Now Threads Magazine has also done a mini tutorial on this - they also used it on charmeuse, so it's not just chiffon it can be used for!

Detail: Gelatin Your Chiffon: A Tutorial

0 I Made My Own Dress Form!

Here she is!  My paper-tape double!  Woohoo! 

Can you tell which one is the real me?

Wow, I’m so happy this worked!  This is a great way to get a dress form without having to spend hundreds of dollars, and the best part is it replicates your unique body shape!  All of the mannequins I’ve looked at have a bust that is still bigger than mine at their smallest measurement, and I am no expert on mannequins but I think you’d probably be hard-pressed to find one with a sway back!

I researched this method of making a dress form on the internet quite a lot, and I found most of the information I found glossed over some of the aspects I wanted to know about.  So I thought I might just make a mini tutorial about what I’ve learned!  And here it is!

 

It was quite fun to make (well, mainly after I’d gotten out of my papery prison- that bit wasn’t so fun)- it sort of took me back to school days where you’d get to make papier mache projects!

Well, shall we get started?

Here’s what you will need:

-paper tape*

-scissors

-garbage bag or thin t-shirt you don't mind cutting up

-masking/duct tape 

-newspapers/fabric scraps/stuffing

-jandals- Americans call these flip flops?

-sponge 

-thick cardboard

-blow drier (optional)

-an awesome husband or helper

*Most of the information was very vague about the kind of tape- I finally found the right stuff and what it is called.  It is referred to as "water activated tape" or "gummed paper tape".  It it used for sealing up boxes and holding down paper for watercolour painting.  I found mine at an art supply store.  I got 150m by 35mm.  I still had plenty left at the end.

New Zealand source:  http://www.gordonharris.co.nz/gummed-paper-tape-c-299_8496.html

International source:   http://www.dickblick.com/products/kraft-paper-tape/

Some ideas if you want to make a stand:

-sturdy wooden coathanger, plus one of the following options:

     -pvc pipe or cardboard tube with christmas tree stand to hold it up

     -an op shop (thrift store) standing lamp

     -anything else you might have that has a pole with a base really!

Total cost of supplies was $17.60 for the paper tape, and about $1 for the bin liner, that's about $15 US all up.  Not bad! :)

Alright, let's get started!  You'll want to set aside a few hours.

Step 1: Tie up your hair, and use the bathroom (don't think I need to explain these!).  Another good thing to do is cut up a lot of strips in advance.  I didn't take my own advice because I was unsure of what length to make them, so here's what I'd advise:  You don't need to worry, just cut a lot of varying lengths, you WILL use them.  I would recommend mainly strips of about 40cm (16 inches), and ranging up to 60cm (24 inches).  This will save you lots of time- trust me, you want to make the wrapping part as fast as possible!

Step 2:  Wear a bra that you would normally wear under your clothing.  Also, wear close fitting leggings too.  I just went for underwear since I don't mind my husband seeing! :)  Now, put on your jandals (these just cushion your feet since you'll be standing a long time) and don your garbage bag (okay mine was technically a "bin liner" if that makes a difference)!  Obviously it didn't fit me like a glove, so I just hacked and slashed and taped at it with my husband until it fit nice and closely.  Then we just cut and taped more bits over any gaps that were left, as well as putting a strip of tape under the bust just to make sure that was nice and tight.  Don't forget to tape around your neck, and make sure it goes low enough- mine was only just long enough.  Let's get personal, internet:  Here is a picture of me wearing a sweaty garbage bag.

Apparently I have no shame?  That's so weird, I thought I did!

Step 3:  Start taping!  Your helper takes the helm here!  Your job is to stand still for now.  We had a bowl of water set up, as well as the sponge and a baking tray (or any surface that will be suitable for wetting the tape on).  You dunk the sponge in the water, squeeze out the excess and swipe it over the tape strip getting it nice and wet and sticky.  First we did some diagonal strips from the shoulder across the chest and over the bust.  Slightly overlap the tape strips on each other.  Then we moved onto defining the waist with horizontal strips.  Don't over-think it though, you will be able to see the logical progression, and you can't do it "wrong" as long as you follow the body's contours.  Diagonals work well in curved areas like around the shoulders and chest.  Here I am after the first layer:

Trying to smile but getting pretty uncomfortable!

The back

 Let's be honest- this thing is NOT comfortable to be in.  I had to grin and bear it but being constrained like this for a long time is not good for you.  Plus, the stinky glue and sweaty garbage bag don't help.  Hah, by the end of it I was talking like a dying person,  my husband couldn't wait to cut me out!

Make sure you tape down to where you need- err on the side of too long versus too short.  You can always cut it shorter but you can't cut it longer.  Mine goes down to about just below where a top would end, which is a good length.  A bit of extra length wouldn't hurt though.  

We were planning to do 2 or 3 layers, but we only ended up doing almost 2.  That was plenty strong though.  As long as the main areas are nice and thick, you can add more tape after it's off!  If yours is quite wet you may need a hairdryer between layers but we didn't need it at all.

Step 4:  Good advice is to mark centre front and centre back, as well as the waistline, before you take it off.  Again I didn't take my own advice.  I figured I could tell pretty easily after it was off, so it was fine :)  What is important though, is to mark the bottom of your dress form all the way around.  Do this an even length from the ground.  This ensures your dress form will be able to sit in a way that mimics your posture- you don't want clothes hanging off it crookedly after all that work!

Step 5:  When the tape is hard enough to keep its shape but still soft enough to get out of, get your helper to cut up the centre back with scissors.  Careful not to stab the skin or cut through the bra strap!  Shimmy out of there, you're free!  Ahhhh, sweet relief!

Now is a good time to put any support items you might like in there.  I have read that for larger busts, shoulder pads are good to put in to stop them collapsing over time.  A wooden coat hanger supports the shoulders, and can be used for hanging, or you can attach your pole to it for part of the stand.  I did none of these things :)

Tape up the back with your duct/masking tape.

At this point, I gave a quick measure and was pleased to discover it was the right size!  It was only about 0.5cm off- that's pretty accurate!  If yours ends up bigger, you can cut vertical slits, pull them tighter and tape till it's the right size.

Step 6:  Do some more layers of tape wherever it looks thin or needs smoothing over, and cover over your tape job at centre back.  I especially focused on the armholes, neck and base, where I wrapped tape to the inside, for extra support, and to make the edges nice and smoothly rounded.

Here is a tip for getting the tape to sit nicely over curved areas- obviously don't worry about doing this when there's a person inside, it'll take too long!  This was my perfectionist side coming out.

See how it stubbornly won't lie flat?

Give it a snip with the scissors

Press it down and it'll lie flat- yup, it's just like snipping curves in sewing!

Step 7:  Trace around the base onto the cardboard.  Cut out cardboard to cover the neck, armholes and base (I just eyedballed the small holes since they are hard to trace).  Cut a hole in the bottom of the base if you're using a stand, and insert the stand.  Tape up the neck, then stuff firmly:

Tape up the rest of the holes, and give them a layer of the paper tape afterwards so they look nice!

...Wait, hang on a minute!  I think we're done!  Now celebrate!!  (Clean up tomorrow! lol!)

Woohoooooo!!!  Finished!

I'm very happy with my body double.  She may have a few funny lumps and bumps here and there, but I love her!  And of course I owe a huge thanks to my husband for helping so much with this wacky project, he is a GEM!

Additional resources:

-This video shows the basics for if you're not sure, and shows a stand option.

-This webpage from Threads magazine shows a bunch of different options for DIY dress forms, as well as some nice in-progress shots.
 

 Wow, this tutorial took me a long time to write, I really hope someone benefits from it.  The only problem is..  now I have no excuse for poorly fitting garments, oh no!

If you do make a dress form from this tutorial, I'd love to see it!  Send me a picture or a link by emails or in the comments! :)  (My email is in my profile.)

Detail: I Made My Own Dress Form!